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Tall triangular white sails,
slim pale boats punctuated with leaning figures - I've never seen more beautiful
water-borne objects than the feluccas of Egypt, graceful and swift as angels.

The Corniche is the promenade
all along the East Bank of the Nile. It is where you go down to board your
felucca or motor launch or floating hotel/cruise ship or simply amble along
leisurely whilst refusing (as cheerfully as your mood or character allows)
the offers put before you by innumerable local entrepreneurs who spend their
entire time waiting for you to part with your money. This is understandable,
since tourist cash is most likely their only source of income, but somehow
you don't want to be reminded of this at every step you take.

I discovered an oasis of tranquility
in the back garden of the Novotel, about a half hour's walk from my less posh
hotel, and spent some pleasant hours there in the sun, observing the Nile,
the palm trees and the foreign guests browning by the pool, built on a floating
deck.


The attempt to give the Ministry
of Electricity (foreground) an "ancient temple" look didn't quite
work but the view from the roof terrace of my hotel is still unmistakeably
Luxor. Sharp felucca sails slicing the rosy haze enveloping sacred rocky mountain
and fields of the West Bank.
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